Glossary
Apparel manufacturing glossary
Short definitions of the terms buyers meet when ordering clothing from a manufacturer.
- MOQ (minimum order quantity)
- The smallest quantity a manufacturer accepts for a style, usually set per style and per colour because of fabric and production setup.
- CMT (cut, make, trim)
- A service in which the factory cuts, sews and finishes garments from fabric and trims the customer supplies or specifies.
- Tech pack
- A technical document for one style with sketches, measurements, fabric and trim specifications, construction details and labels.
- Grading
- Scaling a pattern from the base size to the other sizes in the size run.
- Size run
- The list of sizes in an order, for example 38-40-42-44 or S to XL.
- Size ratio
- How many pieces of each size an order contains, for example 1-2-2-1.
- Lab dip
- A small piece of fabric dyed to match a colour reference, submitted for approval before bulk dyeing.
- Strike-off
- A small printed sample of a design on the real fabric, used to approve colours and scale.
- Fit sample
- A garment, usually in one size, made to check how the style fits on a fit model.
- Pre-production sample
- The final sample, made with production fabric and trims, approved before bulk production starts.
- AQL (acceptable quality limit)
- The maximum number of defects in a sample of units that still allows a lot to pass inspection, set separately for critical, major and minor defects.
- GSM
- Grams per square metre: the weight of a fabric.
- Woven fabric
- Fabric made by interlacing warp and weft yarns; stable and structured.
- Knit fabric
- Fabric made of interlocking loops of yarn; stretchy and comfortable.
- Jacquard
- A woven fabric with a pattern formed in the weave rather than printed on it.
- Satin weave
- A weave that gives a smooth, lustrous surface.
- Cupro
- A silky, breathable regenerated cellulose fibre with a smooth fall.
- Modal
- A soft regenerated cellulose fibre that drapes well.
- Tencel (lyocell)
- A regenerated cellulose fibre known for softness and drape.
- DTY (draw-textured yarn)
- A textured polyester yarn that gives fabrics body, shape retention and crease resistance.
- Quilting
- Stitching layers of fabric with padding between them, used for vests and coats.
- Lining
- An inner layer of fabric that improves comfort, opacity and hang.
- Line sheet
- A document listing styles with photos, codes, fabrics, sizes, prices and delivery windows for retail buyers.
- Private label
- Garments made to your specification or design and sold under your own brand.
- White label
- A manufacturer’s existing generic product sold with the buyer’s label added.
- EXW (ex works)
- Incoterm under which the seller makes goods available at its premises and the buyer arranges everything from there.
- FCA (free carrier)
- Incoterm under which the seller delivers cleared goods to the carrier named by the buyer.
- FOB (free on board)
- Incoterm for sea freight under which the seller loads the goods on the vessel at the port of export.
- CIF (cost, insurance and freight)
- Incoterm for sea freight under which the seller pays freight and minimum insurance to the destination port.
- DAP (delivered at place)
- Incoterm under which the seller delivers to a named place and the buyer clears import.
- DDP (delivered duty paid)
- Incoterm under which the seller delivers to the destination with import duties paid.
- HS code
- The international product classification code used by customs, for example 6204 for women’s woven suits, dresses, skirts and trousers.
- Certificate of origin
- A document stating the country where goods were made, used for customs and trade preferences.
- Landed cost
- The full cost of a garment delivered to your warehouse, including freight, insurance, duties, taxes and fees.