Why a shared vocabulary matters
Most quoting mistakes come from two people using the same word for different things. This glossary defines the terms our quotes and tech packs use, so a quote can be compared line by line with another supplier’s.
Definitions are general industry usage. Exact duties, certificates and contract terms depend on your market and must be confirmed with your customs broker or lawyer.
Production models
Made to order (cut and sew): the factory makes the style to your tech pack, in the quantity you order, usually with your own fabric or a fabric it sources for you. Stock production: the factory makes a style from its own collection, in quantities set by the programme. Private label: the garment is produced under the buyer’s brand, with the buyer’s labels and packaging.
Cut and sew (CMT, cut-make-trim) means the factory cuts, sews and finishes the garment from fabric and trims supplied for the job, and the buyer pays for the labour. Full package production adds fabric and trim sourcing to that service.
Quantities and time
MOQ (minimum order quantity): the smallest quantity a factory will produce for one style or one colour. It can apply per style, per colour or per order, so check which one a quote uses.
Lead time: the time from a confirmed order and approved sample to shipment, not to the start of sampling. Sampling time and production time are separate line items.
Size run: the sizes and the quantity per size in an order, for example a set of sizes from XS to XL. Grading: the rules that scale a sample from one size to the others.
Costs and prices
FOB (free on board): the price includes goods loaded onto the vessel at the port of origin. Other Incoterms move the transport and risk point, so compare quotes on the same term.
Landed cost: the total cost at the buyer’s warehouse, including goods, transport, insurance, duties, taxes and clearance. A low ex-factory price can have a higher landed cost.
Sample fee: the charge for making a development or pre-production sample. Ask whether it is credited against a bulk order.
Quality and documents
AQL (acceptable quality level): a sampling standard that sets how many defects a lot may contain before it is rejected. Common inspection levels are set in ISO 2859-1.
Tech pack: the technical file for a style, with flat sketches, measurement chart, fabric and trim specifications, construction notes, labels and size run. Read the tech pack guide for what to include.
Pre-production sample (PP sample): a sample made from the final materials and approved before bulk production starts. Approval of this sample is the usual point where bulk production begins.
Colourway: one colour version of the same style. Each colourway may need its own fabric and trim approval.
Brand and channel terms
Private label: a garment made for a buyer and sold under the buyer’s brand. White label is a similar term for a generic garment with the buyer’s label added.
Line sheet: a one-page summary of a collection, with style photos, sizes, colours and wholesale terms, used to present to retailers.
Words buyers use in other languages
The same service has different names in each market. These are the most common equivalents we see in buyer searches. They are for orientation; the English term in the quote is the one that governs.
Arabic: حسب الطلب (made to order), استيراد ملابس من تركيا (import clothing from Türkiye), الحد الأدنى للطلب (minimum order).
Russian: пошив под заказ (made to order), от производителя (from the manufacturer), под своим брендом (private label), минимальный заказ (minimum order).
German: Lohnfertigung (contract manufacturing), Großhandel (wholesale), Mindestbestellmenge (minimum order).
Italian: conto terzi (contract manufacturing), ingrosso (wholesale), piccole quantità (small quantities).
French: sur mesure (made to measure), marque blanche (private label), en gros (wholesale).
Spanish: al por mayor (wholesale), fabricante de ropa (clothing manufacturer), marca propia (private label).
Polish: producent odzieży (clothing manufacturer), hurt (wholesale), własna marka (private label).
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between MOQ and lead time?
MOQ is the smallest quantity a factory will make. Lead time is how long it takes to deliver that quantity after the sample and order are approved.
Is cut and sew the same as private label?
No. Cut and sew describes who does the labour and what the buyer supplies. Private label describes whose brand is on the garment. A private-label order can be made to order or from stock.
Why do two quotes for the same dress differ so much?
Compare the MOQ, Incoterm, fabric source, trim and label scope, sample fee and whether the quote includes packing and inspection. A quote that omits these is not comparable.